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Installing 1" Daystar Body Lift 86-95 Jeep Wrangler

By: George “Kickstand” Pandoff

The test vehicle for this lift is a 93 Jeep Wrangler Yj. The vehicle is already equipped with a 1.5” shackle lift running 31X10.5 AT’s. With this amount of lift the Yj cannot clear the tires and has serious rubbing/crunching at full compression.

After much testing we figured one additional inch was needed to properly clear the 31’s. Not wanting to go to a higher arched, thus stiffer leaf spring, or longer shackles, it was decided that a 1” body lift would be added.

I am, in most cases, against body lifts. The higher the body is lifted, the greater the strain on the bolts. Add in the possibility of a rollover and I just don’t like body lifts. For our needs though, this was the best solution. The Daystar Body Lift kit came complete with all hardware. We have two complaints about the kit. First, is the instruction sheet. The kit is sent with 1” lift pucks/bolts but the instructions are for a 2 or 3” body lift. This created a little confusion. Comparing the inventory list there is some additional hardware in the kit for the 2-3” lift while other things from that size lift were left out. After sorting through the instructions all that is needed for the 1” is the pucks, bolts, Loc-tite, and radiator relocating brackets. The second problem with this kit is the radiator relocating brackets. They don’t quite go in as advertised. This will be gone into later.

After careful reading of the instructions we determined that they were pretty much useless for us. At this point promptly toss the instructions aside and go to work.


First locate all 11 body mounts. They are located as follows.

  • 1 Centered under the grill (replace with small puck)
  • 3 Under the door on each side
  • 2 In front of the gas tank (replace with small puck)
  • 2 At the extreme outside rear corners


    1) Starting at the grill, remove this bolt.
    2) Loosen all remaining bolts backing them out about ”.

    Passenger side first

    3) Remove the bolt from in front of the gas tank.
    4) Loosen the steering shaft in two places. First bolt is at the gearbox end of the shaft. The other is about 8 inches in from the firewall. With the bolts loose the shaft will slide on it’s own to adjust for the lift.
    5) Now remove the three bolts under the door area, and 1 at the rear corner.
    6) Under the doors are 3 body mount bolts. Find room next to the middle bolt to place a piece of 2X4 and using a hydraulic jack lift the body up. Leave enough room to get the bolt started.
    7) When you have enough clearance slip the puck in on the frame rail with the rubber bushing sitting on top of the puck.

    Start the new bolts.

  • Insert the 3 door side
  • 1 in front of the gas tank
  • 1 at the rear corner

    Radiator relocation

    After lifting one side it will now be necessary to adjust the radiator, provided you have a fan shroud.

    The kit contains 6 gold colored brackets lowering your radiator back down. These don’t work very well but are necessary. The radiator is attached at six points. Unfortunately, we were only able to attach at the four corner points. The way the radiator is made we couldn’t get access to the middle points to connect the brackets.

    A buddy will be needed to hold the radiator up while bolts are removed from the radiator.

    1) Remove the two lower and middle bolts from the radiator.
    2) Unbolt the power steering reservoir for room. Let it sit to the side.
    3) Place your buddy under the radiator having him lift up providing radiator support as you remove the last two bolts.
    4) While the radiator is buddy supported, screw the radiator bracket into the original bolthole. I had to experiment with some very thin shim washers to get the radiator brackets to be tight at the proper (down) position.
    5) Once you have the radiator bracket in it’s proper position, bolt (using the original bolts) the radiator loosely onto the brackets.
    6) Now repeat for the bottom two and tighten all.
    7) Re-attach the power steering reservoir.

    Finishing The Body Lift

    1) Repeat “Installation” steps 3, & 5-7 and this time slip the front grill puck in. (See note below)

    With all pucks/bolts in place and the jack removed it’s time to do the final touches.

    2) Starting at one point on the vehicle remove one bolt at a time, apply Loc-tite, re-insert and tighten down.

    Note: At the corners under the grill there are two rubber bushings that help to steady the grill. In the 2-3” lift they give you some 2X3” metal blocks to maintain this support. It’s not included for the 1” lift. I still feel that for the durability of the grill they should be there. Lowe’s hardware sells a 1” square steel piping (where they keep their angle iron). Purchase this and cut yourself two 2” long pieces and slip them in under the two rubber bushings. I suggest you JB Weld the blocks onto the frame so they’re not lost during rough off-roading. Painting the steel blocks before inserting will help them resist rusting.

    Steering Shaft

    Tighten down the two bolts loosened in “Installation” step 4.


    After 1 months time we are very happy with the performance/look of the kit. With this minor of a body lift it doesn’t have the large frame to body gap of the 2-3” body lifts. It’s hardly noticeable at first glance.

    As for the rubbing/crunching of the fender we were trying to correct… With the stabilizer bar disconnected and at full compression the tires just touch the fender. Perfect in my opinion.

    If you looking for just that extra little bit of clearance then I would say throw on the 1” body but if you need any more then skip the 2-3” body lift and do a good suspension lift. For our needs the combination of a 1.5” shackle lift with a 1” body lift got us exactly where we wanted to be.


    Daystar 1" Body Lift was $75 through a local 4X4 shop
    Steel pipe from Lowe’s was $7.95
    Assorted washer shims .50 cents
    JB Weld $5.95